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The purpose of this page is to explain the need and rationale behind the maintenance services that each manufacturer establishes for their marine engines and drive assemblies.
It has been determined that a marine engine works 4.6 times harder than an automotive engine. This has been calculated through fuel consumption versus time, establishing how much actual “work” a given engine performs. This is of course magnified above this level, when ballast and additional weight are introduced into the boat.
Source: http://www.boated.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=111643
It is said that in the typically powered 20’ pleasure boat, that the work the engine performs is equivalent to a truck pulling 8000 lb. trailer its whole life. Not to mention many boats spend the majority of their time either at idling speed or at or close to wide open throttle.
The "secret" to prolonging the life of a four stroke marine engine is common-sense simple: Change the crankcase oil regularly, keep the ignition system in tune, and monitor the cooling system. If you follow these three rules, your outboard motor, stern drive or inboard gas or diesel will grow old gracefully. On the other hand, should you neglect to maintain these systems the odds are good that your engine's health will suffer, and its life span will consequently be shortened.
So exactly how often should you change oil and tune the engine? At a minimum, always change the oil during fall lay-up. The rule-of-thumb is: Never log more than 100 hours without an oil change. Engine manufacturers all recommend specific tune-up intervals and oil-change intervals (as well as what type of oil to use). Make sure not to exceed these intervals.
Engine Oil
The "health" of an inboard's lubricant is critical, because marine power plants run hotter than their automotive counterparts. They also work much harder. They're either idling dockside or under constant load. Offshore, there are no hills to coast down. Even when trolling or transiting a no-wake zone, a marine engine has its nose to the veritable grindstone.
Another lubrication problem relates to fall lay-up. As gasoline burns, it deposits acid residue in crankcase oil. Acid content isn't really a problem when oil is changed on schedule. But if old oil is left in the engine over the winter the acid etches bearings, piston skirts, crankshaft journals, and other critical wear surfaces.
Oil has another interesting property and that is its ability to migrate away from bearing surfaces, if left static for a period of time. The problem here is that when the oil migrates it leaves behind the carbon and impurities it was previously suspending. When the engine is first started at spring commissioning the bearings and mating surfaces are spinning on grit before the arrival of the oil from the oil pump. Simply changing the oil during decommissioning prevents this premature wear.
Unfortunately, most boat owners are somewhat lax when it comes to oil changes. If the family car were neglected the way the typical family boat usually is, major repair bills would begin piling up around 50,000 to 75,000 miles. But, if pampered with frequent oil changes and periodic tune-ups, that same car engine could log up to 300,000 miles without an overhaul.
Oil and Filter change Details
Engine Tune-up
In addition to changing oil regularly and during lay-up, tune-ups are another vital element in extending engine life. Marine engines are operating under much higher throttle openings and much higher RPM ranges than automotive applications. A weak ignition spark does a poor job "lighting the fire." As a result, not all of the fuel/air mixture burns. Not only do performance and fuel economy suffer, but unburned, abrasive hydrocarbons also deposit themselves on pistons and combustion chambers.
In extreme cases, unburned gasoline washes lubricant off cylinder walls, causing excess heat and friction to score them. And when gasoline gets into the crankcase sump, it dilutes the oil, reducing lubrication even further. Rings begin to stick, which reduces engine compression pressure. If the oil rings are damaged, the engine becomes an oil-burner.
Ignition components also experience accelerated corrosion and aging due to extended lay-up periods.
Tune-up Details
Cooling System
The third rule for engine longevity is to maintain the cooling system. Most sudden engine failures are due to overheating. Almost all overheating conditions experienced with a marine engine are due to lack of maintenance to the Raw Water Impeller. When an engine loses its cool, rings score cylinder walls, mufflers melt, manifolds crack and heads warp.
Raw Water Imepeller Details
Gear case
By far the most common failure on stern drives is gear damage. In most cases, the damage could have been prevented if the owner had regularly checked the gear case lube. To do so, crack the bottom drain plug and let the liquid drain out. A few drops are all you need: If you see nothing but lubricant, tighten the screws and get on with your life. But if water seeps out, keep the plug loosened and continue to let the liquid drain out until pure gear oil begins to flow.
If less than an ounce of water came out of the gear case, a seal is leaking, but not seriously. Monitor the situation carefully, checking the gear oil before every outing. If more than an ounce (a shot glass full) came out, stay at the dock and find out why.
This lubricant test is best performed after the stern drive has been idle for at least a couple of hours. That way any water will have settled to the bottom of the gear case. If you don't wait, the water froths up into a milky-white liquid. You can tell water is present, but not how much.
Gearcase Reseal / Overhaul Details
Transom Bellows
The transom bellows, on a sterndrive boat, are flexible accordion type rubber assemblies that allow the turning and tilting required in the outdrive propulsion unit. The three sets of bellows accommodate the through transom passage of the drive shaft, the shift cable and the engine exhaust. Their function is to keep water from entering the boat and drive assemblies.
Overtime due to weathering and movement the bellows deteriorate. A boat that was not leaking in the fall and is not properly inspected prior to lay-up, could have the bellows fail shortly after launching in the spring.
Transom Bellows Replacement Details
Gimbal Bearing
The gimbal bearing supports the drive shaft as it exits the transom of the boat through the gimbal assembly and connects to the outdrive. Gimbal bearings become compromised when exposed to water. Water can contact the bearing in two ways, the bellows leak (see previous) or the water level in the bilge becomes high enough (aggravated by bow rise and acceleration) and water flows through the transom plate into the housing.
Gimbal Bearing Details
This list, while not exhaustive, covers the main causes of preventable on water failures, reduced performance and shortened engine life. Source: http://www.marineenginedigest.com/forms/sitemap.htm
Indmar Marine Engine
Indmar Marine Engines FAQ
Inboard Boat Manufacture Recommented 10-20 Hour Service
BOAT EXTERIOR INSPECTION
- Cosmetic condition of hull gel
- Decals attached & in good condition
- Swim platform attached properly & pins installed
- Propeller in good condition
- Underwater gear in good condition
BOAT INTERIOR INSPECTION
- Battery(s) installed w/ all connections tight – no corrosion
- Verify battery voltage
- Bilge pump operation (manual & automatic)
- Horn & blower operation
- Navigation & anchor light operation
- Courtesy lights operation, including remote (where applicable)
- Stereo unit, amp(s), speakers, CD changer & remote operation
- Key switch & neutral safety switch operation
- Throttle controls active & smooth operating
- Smooth steering, no leaks at hydraulic lines
- Windshield trim & walk-thru door operation
- Heater, shower & Binding Blaster operation (where applicable)
- Ballast pumps operation (where applicable)
- 12-volt accessory plug operational
- No visible/loose wires at console & under observer seat
- Check water strainer for debris (where applicable)
- Verify proper operation of additional options not listed here
POWER TRAIN INSPECTION AND RUN-OUT
- Change transmission fluid
- Change engine oil and filter
- Verify fuel line connection is tight with no leaks
- Check transmission cooler for debris
- Check belts & hoses for excessive wear or looseness
- Verify/perform engine alignment
- Lubricate starter gear & shaft
- Crank engine & run-out
- Verify engine timing
- No water, oil or fluid leaks
- Verify kill switch operation
- All gauges working properly
- Check coolant level (closed cooling systems only)
- Plug-in Diacom to verify no DTCs
Contact us
Phone: 705-762-1083
Email:
customerservice@sunandski.ca
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